Alexander McQueen’s Struggles & New Vision at Paris Fashion Week | Vogue
Beneath the spectacle of Paris Fashion Week, a more complex narrative is unfolding at Alexander McQueen. Although Chappell Roan’s presence in the front row and the flow of champagne backstage captured attention, the brand is grappling with significant financial challenges. Reports indicate a 60% decline in turnover over the past three years, leading to workforce reductions in London and potential job losses – roughly a third of the 180 employees – in Italy.
The struggles come fifteen years after the death of Lee McQueen, the founder whose name remains synonymous with boundary-pushing design and a uniquely personal brand of glamour. But, the shock value that defined McQueen’s early work appears to have diminished in resonance with contemporary consumers, and the brand is working to maintain momentum in a shifting fashion landscape.
The Autumn/Winter 2026 display, overseen by Creative Director Seán McGirr, who assumed the role in 2023, offered a potentially stabilizing force. McGirr’s collection was described as one of his strongest to date, opening with a dramatically elongated herringbone jacket – barely long enough to qualify as a dress – tightly buttoned at the waist and flowing into soft waves. McGirr drew inspiration from McQueen’s 20-year-aged “Widows of Culloden” collection, a work lauded for its controlled emotional intensity, particularly in its silhouettes.
The collection continued with a white lace dress, meticulously corseted and topped with a shoulder cape of glimmering feathers, now ethically sourced with silk embroidery rather than plucked from birds – a reflection of evolving industry standards. A nod to the brand’s provocative past was present in the form of harness-lashed trousers, though reimagined with a subtle dip at the spine, creating a heart-shaped frame around the lower back, an area Lee McQueen once famously described as “the most erotic part of anyone’s body.”
McGirr’s vision extended beyond the garments themselves, influencing the overall presentation. Models sported long lashes, pointed nails, and styled curls – a look reminiscent of contemporary urban nightlife rather than the avant-garde aesthetics often favored on runways. This stylistic choice aimed to inject immediacy and relevance into a house deeply rooted in its archives.
“It was important to me that the girls looked like they dressed themselves,” McGirr stated, articulating his desire for a relatable aesthetic. “I’m inspired by London girls. West Conclude girls, I guess, with a bit of Camden as well.” The collection also subtly referenced British fashion history, with pert miniskirts and knee-high boots echoing the designs of Mary Quant.
The show wasn’t solely focused on aesthetics; it also explored themes of identity and performance in the digital age. McGirr acknowledged the curated nature of modern self-presentation, observing that “We’re really ‘on’ all the time, you know? We’re constantly performing. It feels like there’s some kind of psychological disruption going on there, and I wanted to look at that. There is paranoia, and perfectionism, and performance.”
Adding to the buzz surrounding the show was the presence of Chappell Roan, who attended the McQueen Autumn/Winter 2026 show on . Roan, known for her theatrical style, made a striking appearance in a sheer black gown custom-designed by Alexander McQueen, styled by Genesis Webb. This look echoed a similar sheer ensemble she wore at the , further solidifying her status as a fashion risk-taker.
Roan’s appearance in Paris followed a previous show-stopping moment at Paris Fashion Week 2026, where she wore a completely sheer black gown. The gown, crafted by Alexander McQueen, featured a sheer bodice over black thongs and a flowing skirt, a look that drew comparisons to her Grammy’s outfit. She accessorized with black heels, statement jewelry, and her signature fiery red curls.
The McQueen show also comes on the heels of Roan’s appearance at the Corona Capital 2025 festival in Mexico City on , where she wore three custom McQueen looks styled by Genesis Webb. The first look included a Victorian-inspired coat with high-neck and caged skirt in ivory silk faille, chiffon and corded lace, complete with a sculpted headpiece, and veil. The second was a corseted dress in ivory corded lace, and the third a two-piece set with laced harness and corsetry details. Accessories included knee-high boots and gloves in ivory leather and tulle.
While Roan’s high-profile appearances undoubtedly generate attention for the brand, the underlying financial concerns remain. McGirr’s collection represents a crucial step in navigating these challenges, attempting to balance the legacy of Lee McQueen with a contemporary vision that resonates with a new generation of consumers. The success of this balancing act will be critical to securing McQueen’s future in a rapidly evolving fashion industry.