Amsterdam’s ‘Brown Bars’: Cosy Cafes & Dutch Culture | The Guardian
Amsterdam’s famed “brown bars,” or bruine kroegen, are more than just pubs; they’re cultural institutions, surrogate living rooms steeped in history and conviviality. But these cozy, dimly lit establishments, characterized by their dark wood furnishings, aged knick-knacks, and often tobacco-stained walls, are facing a growing threat from rising costs and the allure of more modern, profitable bars. A recent exploration of several of these iconic venues reveals a delicate balance between preserving tradition and adapting to a changing city.
The name “brown bar” itself is a nod to the past, originating from the days when smoking was permitted indoors, leaving walls and ceilings coated in a characteristic brown hue. While the 2008 smoking ban prompted some establishments to simply paint over the stains, the aesthetic remains central to the experience. These bars aren’t about flashy cocktails or trendy décor; they’re about simple pleasures – a cold beer, a glass of jenever (Dutch gin), and classic snacks like bitterballen (meat ragout croquettes) and borrelnootjes (crispy coated nuts). The atmosphere is key, with soft vintage jazz often considered the ideal soundtrack, though not always consistently delivered.
Historically, brown bars were largely male domains, but today they welcome a diverse clientele, from longtime locals to curious tourists. They represent a tangible link to Dutch culture and tradition, a space where conversation flows easily and a sense of community thrives. However, according to reports, more than a quarter of these establishments have closed since 2010, a worrying trend that highlights the economic pressures they face.
Despite these challenges, the brown bars in Amsterdam’s city center appear to be holding their own. One venue in the Jordaan district embodies the typical characteristics – inviting, cozy, and steeped in history – though it received a slightly lower rating due to feeling “a little too polished” for a truly authentic brown bar experience. An unwelcome intrusion of modern life – an English couple discussing an Ocado grocery order – further detracted from the ambiance.
The search for the “perfect” brown bar often involves navigating a spectrum of authenticity. Café Pieper, dating back to 1665, presents a conundrum: its striking, slanted windows were intentionally installed by a previous owner to enhance the historic experience, raising the question of how much of the charm is genuine versus manufactured. This highlights a common challenge in appreciating these spaces – discerning the authentic from the curated.
However, once inside Café Pieper, the atmosphere is undeniably inviting. The modest, low-ceilinged room, seating around 25 patrons, exudes a sense of gezelligheid – a Dutch concept encompassing coziness, conviviality, and well-being. Manager Chag Walvisch, a former regular himself, emphasizes the strong sense of community and personalized service that distinguishes brown bars. “We understand exactly what they like to drink,” he says, noting the relaxed approach to tabs and the ease with which patrons can strike up conversations. “You just don’t get all that in a normal bar.” The bar’s appeal extends to tourists, with some visitors returning multiple times during their stay.
In contrast to the bustling tourist areas, Café De Dokter offers a remarkably preserved glimpse into the past. Located just moments from Amsterdam Centraal Station, yet tucked away from the garish tourist streets, this establishment, dating back to 1798, feels frozen in time. Dust-covered chandeliers, grime-coated clocks, and faded paintings contribute to its unique character. Despite the somewhat dilapidated appearance, the bar maintains a commitment to cleanliness, with spotless glasses and furniture. The vintage jazz soundtrack further enhances the atmosphere, earning it a high rating of 9/10.
The enduring appeal of brown bars lies in their ability to offer a respite from the increasingly homogenized world of modern bars. As one bartender at ‘t Aepjen, a bar dating back to 1519, explained, people are “fed up of fancy bars and expensive cocktails they’ve never heard of.” The bar’s history is also unique, with sailors once paying their tabs with monkeys brought back from the East Indies. Despite its proximity to a notoriously touristy street, ‘t Aepjen continues to attract both locals and visitors, offering a taste of authentic Amsterdam.
Café Eijlders, a haven for artists and bohemians during the Nazi occupation, provides another example of a brown bar successfully navigating the challenges of modernity. Its dark red and brown color scheme, coupled with a soundtrack of Nina Simone and Nat King Cole, creates a distinctly nostalgic atmosphere. The fact that it remains a popular spot for locals, despite its proximity to the bustling Leidseplein, speaks to its enduring appeal.
The future of Amsterdam’s brown bars remains uncertain, but their continued presence in the city center suggests a resilient spirit. They offer a unique and valuable cultural experience, a reminder of a simpler time, and a welcoming space for all. As long as there’s a demand for authenticity, conviviality, and a good beer, these historic establishments are likely to remain a cherished part of Amsterdam’s identity.