Bottega Veneta SS26: Louise Trotter’s Assured Milan Show | 10 Magazine
Milan – – Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2026 ready-to-wear collection, presented on a red carpet runway, marked a confident second outing for Creative Director Louise Trotter. The collection, a study in contrasts, began with a controlled austerity and blossomed into a display of shimmer, texture, and theatricality.
Trotter doubled down on the house’s signature Intrecciato weave, celebrating its 50th anniversary with a pervasive presence throughout the collection. The weave wasn’t merely a detail. it was integral to the garments’ structure, climbing leather coats, wrapping collars, and interrupting the lines of pleated bodies. A black silk satin and leather jumpsuit exemplified this approach, seamlessly transitioning from tight pleats into woven panels. The craftsmanship was particularly striking in a hand-woven leather cape, reportedly requiring 4,000 hours to complete.
The initial presentation favored a largely black palette, punctuated by strategic jolts of cobalt, camel, butter yellow, and a deep blood red. Tailoring leaned towards a balance of structure and volume – rounded shoulders, a subtle hourglass silhouette, and semi-skinny trousers paired with thin knits layered over shirts. Asymmetrical midis, cinched off-center, and substantial brushed mohair knits, including a striking red V-neck tank dress, established a mood of refined restraint.
Irina Shayk’s appearance on the runway encapsulated the collection’s early aesthetic. She wore a mid-calf grey wool coat featuring exaggerated rounded shoulders and a dramatically sculpted lapel that plunged almost to the sternum. The coat’s silhouette narrowed cleanly at the waist before falling straight, with pockets positioned slightly low and wide to subtly alter the proportions.
The collection then underwent a noticeable shift. Faux fur and feathery fabrics entered the scene, introducing a sense of playful extravagance. Shaggy leopard, tiger-striped yellow and white, and ice-white dresses adorned with what appeared to be tiny black flowers added a layer of texture and visual interest. A shimmering blood-red twinset, modeled by Mariacarla Boscono, amplified the dramatic effect.
Perhaps the most innovative element of the collection was Trotter’s experimentation with recycled fiberglass. The material was used to create furry chubbies and boxy coats in shimmering black and electric cobalt, possessing an almost internal luminescence. The surface had a unique, glossy halo – neither quite fur nor plastic – and moved with a deliberate, theatrical swish. A salmon pink version softened the effect, while a short-sleeved black dress paired with a floofy red hat evoked the spirit of Studio 54.
Trotter also paid homage to the house’s history, referencing the Lauren bag – famously carried by Lauren Hutton in the film American Gigolo – alongside classic white shirts and single-lapel tuxedos. These nods to the brand’s heritage provided a grounding element amidst the more experimental designs.
The collection’s trajectory was deliberate. It began with control and severity, then evolved into a celebration of shimmer, fluff, and bounce. It was, a brutalist aesthetic softened, then amplified. The demonstrate demonstrated Trotter’s growing confidence in interpreting and expanding upon the Bottega Veneta legacy, showcasing a willingness to push boundaries while remaining true to the brand’s core values of craftsmanship and understated luxury.
The utilize of innovative materials like recycled fiberglass signals a potential shift towards greater sustainability within the luxury brand, a move increasingly expected by consumers and industry observers. The experimentation with texture and form also suggests a desire to redefine the brand’s aesthetic for a novel generation, moving beyond its traditionally minimalist approach.
The collection’s success will likely be measured not only by critical reception but also by its commercial performance. Bottega Veneta, under the ownership of Kering, has been steadily regaining momentum in the luxury market. Trotter’s ability to balance creative vision with commercial viability will be crucial to the brand’s continued growth.
The Fall 2026 collection positions Bottega Veneta as a brand willing to embrace both its heritage and innovation, a delicate balance that few luxury houses manage to achieve consistently. It’s a statement of intent from Trotter, signaling a clear vision for the future of the iconic Italian label.