Dinner by Heston Closing: Heston Blumenthal & Restaurant’s Decline

The celebrated Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a two Michelin-starred restaurant in London’s Knightsbridge, is set to close its doors, marking a significant shift in the fine dining landscape. While Heston Blumenthal publicly attributed the closure to the end of the restaurant’s tenancy at the Mandarin Oriental hotel, a deeper look reveals a complex story of creative fallout, financial pressures and shifting priorities.

Dinner by Heston, famed for its historically-inspired and often theatrical dishes like the “meat fruit,” was once considered a pinnacle of culinary innovation. However, sources close to the restaurant suggest a decline began years ago, following a falling out between Blumenthal and Ashley Palmer-Watts, the chef instrumental in creating the menu and running the day-to-day operations. “Closing the restaurant was not Heston’s choice whatsoever,” a senior source at the Mandarin Oriental told the Guardian. “The hotel chose not to renew the lease.”

The source claims the restaurant’s performance suffered significantly after Palmer-Watts’ departure in 2020. “It never performed particularly well after Ashley left, which is shocking as it was potentially the busiest and most successful two Michelin-star restaurant in the world. It went off the boil. When Ashley left, so did most of the core team.” The restaurant reportedly experienced unusually low traffic, with Sunday lunch services described as “empty,” a stark contrast to its previous success.

Blumenthal’s representatives disputed the claim of underperformance, characterizing Dinner by Heston as a “highly regarded and popular part of our portfolio.” However, the restaurant’s struggles appear to be part of a broader pattern of financial difficulties within Blumenthal’s restaurant group. Last year, SL6 Ltd, the company overseeing several of Blumenthal’s ventures including the three Michelin-starred Fat Duck, reported a loss of £2.1 million, an increase from £1.4 million the previous year. The company cited “wage inflation” and “economic uncertainties” impacting customer spending as contributing factors. A winding-up petition was even issued by HMRC (Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs) last month, though Blumenthal’s spokesperson stated the payment was made in full and the petition withdrawn.

Palmer-Watts, who learned of the closure through press reports, expressed a mix of emotions. “I thought it was a bittersweet moment because I had amazing times there creating that thing and it was an incredible experience,” he said. He takes pride in the foundations he laid, noting that the restaurant maintained its Michelin stars for six years after his departure. Since leaving Dinner, Palmer-Watts has focused on other projects, including the award-winning London pub, The Devonshire, where he designs the menu, and his own spirits line, High Fidelity Orange.

The Mandarin Oriental reportedly considered closing Dinner by Heston as early as last year, but Blumenthal requested an extension until January 2027 to coincide with the restaurant’s 16th anniversary. The hotel is now in discussions with other prominent chefs, including Jason Atherton and Anne-Sophie Pic, to take over the space. Blumenthal’s spokesperson clarified that the original contract was due to conclude in July 2026, and the six-month extension was a joint decision.

Heston Blumenthal’s influence on modern cuisine is undeniable. He pioneered techniques like the use of liquid nitrogen and sous vide cooking, and popularized dishes like triple-cooked chips and scotch eggs with runny yolks. However, the realization of these innovative ideas often relied on Palmer-Watts’ ability to translate them into dishes that could be consistently executed for a large volume of diners. “Dinner was Ashley’s baby really, he was amazing,” said Will Murray, a former Dinner chef who now runs his own restaurants. “Working with Ashley at Dinner turned me from a completely undisciplined but passionate cook, to being a proper, disciplined chef.”

Blumenthal himself downplayed the significance of the rift with Palmer-Watts, stating, “The suggestion that Dinner declined because of a falling out between Ashley and me simply isn’t accurate. Ashley and I had a long and successful working relationship, and I have a great deal of respect for him and the contribution he made.” He attributed the restaurant’s evolution to natural changes over time.

Beyond the internal dynamics, other factors contributed to Dinner’s decline. Chefs who worked at the restaurant pointed to disagreements between Blumenthal and the Mandarin Oriental’s management, as well as the impact of controversies surrounding Blumenthal, including reports of underpaid staff at the sister restaurant in Australia, totaling $4.5 million (£2.4m). The loss of Blumenthal’s regular television appearances on Channel 4 similarly reportedly affected the restaurant’s visibility and customer base. “We didn’t really do much on Instagram or social media, Heston preferred to keep an exclusive sense but that doesn’t bring in customers these days,” one chef explained.

Blumenthal’s spokesperson dismissed claims of mismanagement and leadership failures, asserting that Dinner by Heston maintained its Michelin recognition and international reputation throughout its tenure. Nevertheless, the closure marks the end of an era for a restaurant that once redefined fine dining and showcased the extraordinary culinary partnership between Heston Blumenthal and Ashley Palmer-Watts.