Donna Karan: From Anne Klein Assistant to Fashion Icon | My First Job in Fashion
Before she became a fashion icon in her own right, Donna Karan experienced a formative, and surprisingly abrupt, introduction to the world of Seventh Avenue at the hands of Anne Klein. In a new interview with Vogue, Karan reflects on her early days as an assistant to Klein, a period that ultimately shaped her career, despite a somewhat inauspicious start.
Born into a fashion-centric family – her father was a tailor, her mother a model – Karan initially resisted following in their footsteps. “Growing up, I swore I would never be on New York’s Seventh Avenue,” she confessed. Her ambitions lay elsewhere: a singing career mirroring Barbra Streisand, or a life in dance akin to Martha Graham. Karan describes herself as relentlessly active, prone to both exuberance and injury. “I’d jump on tables; hang off trees. I am a nature girl,” she said, adding with a touch of self-deprecating humor, “I’ve put on more fashion shows in a wheelchair than I’d like to admit.”
Despite her initial reluctance, Karan found herself enrolled at Parsons School of Design. However, her time there wasn’t without its challenges. She struggled with draping and was told, bluntly, that she lacked the aptitude to become a fashion designer. It was at this juncture, at the age of 21, that Anne Klein saw something in her. Karan recalls arriving at Klein’s studio with her portfolio, only to be initially mistaken for a model due to her height. “I am not a model, but a designer,” she asserted, and Klein, intrigued, took a chance on her.
The early days were decidedly humble. Karan’s initial responsibilities revolved around the mundane – making coffee, tailoring the brew to the preferences of her colleagues as a subtle measure of how quickly she could abandon for the day. She was struck by the sheer volume of clothing in the studio, questioning the necessitate for such extensive wardrobes. “I remember when I first walked into the studio, I’d never seen so many clothes in my life. Why do people have all these clothes? I don’t understand it. I wear the same clothes every single day. I want to be comfortable,” she explained.
The relationship, however, wasn’t destined to last. Just nine months after being hired, Anne Klein terminated Karan’s employment. This setback proved to be a pivotal moment, leading her to Patti Cappalli and the sportswear line Addenda. Cappalli immediately sent Karan abroad, first to Saint-Tropez and then to Paris, in search of fabrics. While the experience was valuable, Karan ultimately felt a pull back towards the energy of Seventh Avenue, a street steeped in her family’s history – her father’s tailoring workshop had once been located there.
Anne Klein, born Hannah Golofsky in , was a significant figure in American fashion. According to Wikipedia, she co-founded Anne Klein & Company in with Gunther Oppenheim, and within a decade, her designs were available in over 750 stores across the United States. Klein’s career began early, receiving a scholarship to the Traphagen School of Fashion at the age of 14 and landing her first job as a sketcher on Seventh Avenue. She married clothing manufacturer Ben Klein in , launching the Junior Sophisticates line, catering to younger women with smaller frames. After her marriage ended, she married Matthew “Chip” Rubinstein in , and together they established Anne Klein & Company on 39th Street, later adding the Anne Klein Studio on 57th Street.
The Anne Klein brand, as noted by Wikipedia, focused on understanding the clothing needs of working women and promoting female empowerment. Klein received the Mademoiselle Merit Award in and continued to garner recognition throughout her career. She even patented a girdle designed specifically for the miniskirt in .
Karan’s story, as she recounts it, highlights the often-unpredictable path to success in the fashion industry. Her initial rejection by Parsons, her brief dismissal from Anne Klein, and her subsequent journey through different design houses all contributed to the development of her own distinct aesthetic and her rise to prominence. The upcoming National Arts Club’s Medal of Honor in Fashion, which Karan is set to accept, serves as a testament to her enduring influence and the lasting impact of her early experiences, even those that initially seemed like setbacks. The interview offers a rare glimpse behind the scenes of a pivotal era in American fashion, and the formative experiences that shaped one of its most iconic designers.
The National Arts Club’s Medal of Honor galas, as described on their website, are annual events recognizing leaders in the arts. Karan’s recognition underscores the significant intersection between fashion and the broader artistic landscape.