Mickey Drexler on Building Alex Mill: Small is the New Big | Vogue Business
Mickey Drexler, the retail veteran who helped build Gap and J.Crew into household names, isn’t one for patience. But he’s found that a little bit of it—and a lot of trust—can be a powerful formula, especially when building a business with family. Drexler, 81, is currently chairman of Alex Mill, the New York-based brand founded by his son, Alex Drexler, in 2012. And while his career has been defined by a “move-speedy, get-results” attitude, he’s learned to embrace a different pace with this venture.
“We set the time in and the work. Now, I feel exceptionally quality about where we are,” Drexler told Vogue Business in a recent interview. “But you never can relax in this business. Because there’s always the next season, the next year.”
Alex Mill began with a focus on a simple, well-made men’s button-down shirt. It has since expanded into a full men’s and women’s fashion line, gaining a reputation for its colorful knitwear and use of natural materials. Observers have noted a stylistic resemblance to J.Crew, the brand Drexler famously revitalized during his tenure as CEO. Although, Drexler emphasizes that the key to Alex Mill’s success lies in its internal dynamics and a deliberate departure from the pressures of external investment.
Drexler joined Alex Mill as chairman in , with a specific condition: he wanted to operate without the oversight of investors. The leadership structure consists of Drexler, his son Alex, and Somsack Sikhounmuong, the brand’s creative director, who previously worked with Drexler at J.Crew. This streamlined decision-making process, Drexler believes, is crucial to the brand’s agility and creative freedom.
“I joined [in ] because I frankly didn’t want to have investors anymore,” Drexler explained. “Modest is the new considerable. That’s what we always say. And actually, I love small, because big companies today are bureaucratic. There’s an ivory tower.” He contrasted this with his experience at J.Crew, where he served as CEO until and then as executive chairman for two years, as well as holding chairman positions at other brands like Outdoor Voices.
“And if you want something done, you have to go through layers upon layers. And even then, you don’t get an answer.”
The interview took place in Alex Mill’s SoHo offices, where Drexler, Alex, and Sikhounmuong discussed the launch of a new mini tote bag and ballet flats. The introduction of womenswear was a strategic evolution for the brand, which initially focused solely on menswear. A key moment in recognizing the potential for womenswear came in , when Goop purchased Alex Mill’s men’s shirts for its women’s store.
The ballet flats, crafted in Florence, Italy, are available in seven colors. The “Perfect Little tote” is set to launch on , expanding the brand’s popular tote bag category.
Drexler dominated the conversation during the interview, offering a candid and unfiltered perspective on the business. At 81, he appears unconcerned with conventional PR protocols, demonstrating a fierce dedication to Alex Mill’s success. His willingness to speak plainly, even if it might make a publicist uneasy, underscores his commitment to the brand and his unique approach to leadership.
Drexler’s career is a testament to his ability to identify and capitalize on market opportunities. His launch of Old Navy at Gap Inc. In resulted in the fastest retailer to reach $1 billion in sales—achieving that milestone in just four years. However, with Alex Mill, he’s prioritizing a different kind of success—one built on creative control, family collaboration, and a rejection of the pressures of rapid, investor-driven growth. It’s a shift that reflects a seasoned executive finding a new rhythm in the later stages of his remarkable career.
The focus on a smaller, more nimble operation allows for a level of responsiveness and attention to detail that Drexler believes is impossible in larger organizations. This approach, coupled with the strong creative partnership between himself, his son, and Sikhounmuong, positions Alex Mill for continued growth and a distinct identity in a crowded fashion landscape. The launch of the new tote and ballet flats represents not just an expansion of the product line, but a further articulation of the brand’s aesthetic and a commitment to its core values.