Schiaparelli Exhibition Opening: London Fashion & Art Event
The Victoria and Albert Museum in London played host to a glittering event last night, marking the opening of Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art. The exhibition, which opens to the public on , is the first major UK retrospective dedicated to the work of Elsa Schiaparelli and the current creative direction of Daniel Roseberry.
The evening drew a crowd of fashion industry figures, artists, and patrons, all eager to explore the legacy of a designer who consistently blurred the lines between fashion and art. The exhibition traces Schiaparelli’s groundbreaking origins in the 1920s through to the present day, showcasing her innovative designs and collaborations with some of the 20th century’s most prominent artists, including Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau.
Schiaparelli’s impact on fashion is often described as disruptive. Unlike her contemporaries, she embraced surrealism, injecting wit, fantasy, and a playful irreverence into her creations. This approach, as noted by Sonnet Stanfill, the senior curator who spearheaded the exhibition, allowed Schiaparelli to “help clients dare to dress differently in a way that demanded people look twice.” Her designs weren’t simply garments; they were statements, conversations, and often, provocations.
The exhibition features over 200 objects, including iconic pieces like the “Skeleton” dress, a padded silk gown with quilted ‘bones’ created in collaboration with Dalí, and the “Tears” dress, a veiled trompe l’oeil gown also designed with Dalí. Accessories, jewelry, perfumes, paintings, and archival materials further illuminate Schiaparelli’s creative process and the cultural context in which she operated.
The V&A’s collection of Schiaparelli garments is considered one of the largest and most significant in the world, making it a fitting venue for this retrospective. The exhibition also highlights the current iteration of the Schiaparelli brand under Daniel Roseberry, who has been creative director since 2019. Roseberry’s work, praised for bringing a “new voice, as well as new clientele” to the couture house, demonstrates the enduring relevance of Schiaparelli’s original vision.
Guests at the opening embraced the spirit of the exhibition with their own interpretations of modern eveningwear. Daisy Edgar-Jones opted for a refined two-piece ensemble from the collection, while Elizabeth Debicki showcased the sculptural aesthetic that defines Roseberry’s designs. Chase Infiniti made a bold statement in a lobster-red dress, a nod to Schiaparelli’s famous lobster telephone created with Dalí, and Regina King, Naomi Ackie, Gabbriette, and Rina Sawayama all demonstrated the label’s daring creativity.
The exhibition’s timing feels particularly resonant. In an era where fashion is increasingly influenced by art and celebrity collaborations, Schiaparelli’s pioneering approach feels remarkably prescient. Her willingness to challenge conventions and embrace the unexpected continues to inspire designers today. The success of Roseberry’s Schiaparelli, which has garnered significant attention for its provocative and often surreal designs, further underscores the enduring power of her legacy.
Beyond the garments themselves, the exhibition delves into Schiaparelli’s collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, and Pablo Picasso. These partnerships were central to her creative process, resulting in some of her most iconic and memorable designs. The inclusion of portraits by Man Ray and Picasso, alongside sketches by Cocteau, provides a deeper understanding of the artistic milieu that shaped Schiaparelli’s work.
The exhibition also acknowledges Schiaparelli’s influence on contemporary fashion. The V&A highlights how Roseberry has successfully reinvented Schiaparelli’s vision for a new century, maintaining the brand’s commitment to innovation and artistic collaboration. Kuba Dabrowski’s portrait of Awar Odhiang, wearing Schiaparelli Haute Couture from the fall/winter 2024 collection, serves as a visual bridge between Schiaparelli’s past and present.
Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art isn’t simply a retrospective; it’s a celebration of a designer who dared to be different. It’s a reminder that fashion can be more than just clothing – it can be a form of art, a statement of individuality, and a catalyst for cultural conversation. Tickets for the exhibition, which will be held in the Sainsbury Gallery at the V&A South Kensington, are priced at £28.00 on weekdays and £30.00 on weekends, with concessions available. Advance booking is recommended, and can be made via the V&A’s website or by calling +44 (0)20 7942 2000.