Trouser Turn-Ups Are Back: How to Style the Preppy Trend | Fashion Trends

The trouser turn-up, a styling detail once considered firmly rooted in preppy aesthetics, is experiencing a resurgence in high fashion and everyday wear. From Harry Styles’s pinstripe trousers at the Brit Awards to appearances on the Paris Fashion Week runways, and even integrated into the latest Uniqlo collaboration with JW Anderson, the turn-up is making a statement.

The trend isn’t simply a revival of a past look; it’s a nuanced detail that designers and stylists are using to update silhouettes and add visual interest. Aurora Benson, a branded womenswear buying manager at John Lewis, notes a “significant move toward the turn-up” among street stylers observed at recent fashion weeks. “It’s a simple way to update existing denim, adding immediate visual interest to an outfit without the need for extra layers,” she explains.

The return of the turn-up aligns with a broader trend of embracing classic, somewhat understated elements of preppy style. Brands like Alex Mill, known for their J.Crew-adjacent aesthetic, prominently feature turned-up jeans paired with colorful accessories like purple loafers and pink socks, or letterbox-red ballet flats and yolk-yellow socks. John Lewis offers turn-ups ranging from subtle pencil-thin cuffs to more substantial, dictionary-depth folds.

The history of the turn-up, as detailed by Muffy Aldrich, editor of the blog Salt Water New England: The Thing Before Preppy, traces back to British origins. Legend has it that King Edward VII popularized the style by rolling up his trousers at Ascot. Aldrich emphasizes the enduring appeal of the turn-up, stating, “As with everything preppy, cuffs are returned to because they are perfect…The right cuffs always look right.”

This resurgence echoes the recent revival of other preppy staples – Sperry Top-Siders, worn-in rugby shirts, and baseball caps – tapping into a sense of New England scruffy-glamour. The 1980 Official Preppy Handbook, a satirical guide to upper-class style, considered turn-ups a fundamental element of the look.

Beyond aesthetics, the turn-up offers a functional element. Aldrich points out that they “allow a garment to be both crisp and ready for horsing around,” providing a balance between polished presentation, and practicality. She even notes the dedication of classic preps who wear them in situations where they’re clearly impractical – on boats where they snag on cleats, or in fields where they collect pine needles.

Still, achieving the perfect turn-up isn’t as simple as just folding the fabric. Melanie Wilkinson, The Guardian’s styling editor, cautions that success depends on several factors. Too wide a leg opening can result in a floppy, ill-defined cuff, while the ideal shape is a close-fitting straight leg or a slightly tapered one. The number of turn-ups likewise matters; a single turn-up can appear unfinished, while a double turn-up can look bulky.

The fabric itself plays a role. Stiff selvedge denim is ideal for holding its shape, while jeans with elastane and looser weaves can be more challenging to cuff effectively. Somsack Sikhounmuong, creative director of Alex Mill, suggests a one-inch cuff as a general guideline, while Aldrich favors a 1.5-inch cuff for a more classic look.

So, why now? Sikhounmuong believes the trend is part of a cyclical fashion pattern. “Everything in fashion is connected…and cuffed hems are no different. After seasons of noteworthy footwear…it makes sense to roll up your pants and show off those shoes.”

Aldrich offers a more critical perspective, suggesting that clothing companies sometimes remove turn-ups to cut costs, and then reintroduce them as a trendy feature. “Designers make cuffs too big, and as with shoulders on jackets or fins on cars, by making them trendy, they assure their obsolescence one or two seasons hence.” However, she argues that a properly sized turn-up offers a timeless quality, providing a subtle distinction without being overtly fashionable.

the turn-up’s enduring appeal lies in its ability to be both functional and stylish, a small detail that can elevate an outfit and connect wearers to a rich history of preppy and classic fashion. It’s a detail that, when done right, simply “works,” as Aldrich puts it.